FRANK CUNDARI our Master Mechanic is the master behind all this information. If you have any questions regarding JZ motor combos or setups we (Triple Crown Drift) love these motors and have many different combos in our current cars and builds. 1jzgte, 2jzgte, 1.5JZGTE 10.5compression, 1.5JZgte 8.5compression,1JZgte VVti and soon 2JZgte vvti
1jzgte VVTi JZX100 harness diagram
I wanted to share some wiring info on those who wanted the "fun" with a VVTi harness.
I did not find much help with the harness from the chaser's, so seperated the harness and found the wires locations from the body side to the engine.
I will include some diagrams from the ecu as well. The ecu has the same connectors as the non-vvti 1jz. The chaser harness does not include two of the ecu connectors there is a list of ecu's that was made (not tried by me) but may be helpfull as well.
There are six pics of two with the connectors as well as most all wires traced.
Here is #1 of the unknown connectors.
The #2 unknown connector.
Here is #3, it powers the injectors, coils.... all wires are the same colors.
Here is #4
Here is #5
Here is #6
This link had info on some cars you can snag connectors from.
I went a but further and wanted to show what the missing connectors in the ecu are ( H & G ), With the help of Jason Purcell~ and his online info here are some more pics with diagrams for the ecu.
Video showing how to run the swap without installing it into the car. Click pic for video.
*!!! If you do not take care to secure the engine while it is running outside a car it WILL tip/ flip over!!!* I used a eng hoist as well as had the engine secured to a 4 point engine stand. It was not shown but I had the fuel system setup with a special system and the return line was sealed after the fpr. It does not run too great with the afm attached to the tbi due to the iacv routed back at the turbo inlet. Dont forget to plug off the brake booster hose as well as any other manifold vac lines. It is a bit on the noisy side as well as creates a good bit of fumes, I would advise doing this in a well ventilated area.
To start the motor in or out of a car, make sure these things listed are done. Listed in the video also.
Oil change W/filter
All info and #'s are in reference to my above pictures and don't reflect the same on OE diagrams (necessarily)
At the PCM the 2x missing connectors are "G-28p and H-16p" On the "G" connector run power to #9, #14, #22
*Thats it at the pcm
Connector #3 (Blue 12p) All of it goes to power. If I was advising you to wire it, I would seperate the injectors from the coils and the rest on seperate fused power. With the three seperate fused power sources diagnostics will be a world easier when using an amp probe and scope to check for drivibility problems. .02
Connector #6 (Grey 11p) #4 goes to ground.
Connector #2 (White 16p) #1, #9 both go to ground.
Connector #4 (Grey 12p) #2, #7 both go to power. #5 goes to the starter, power that wire to activate the starter (assuming the starter has a HIGH current B+ /ground cable already)
Connector #1 (White 20p) #1 goes to ground.
If I did not list it you dont need to do anything with it to make the car run.
As for the alt, depends on the car... that can be figured out after the engine runs.
With all these done as listed above your motor should run. If it does not start, look into making sure all connections are good, recheck grounds (dont forget to add an extra ground from the body to the batt negative and from the engine to the body* it just makes things easier when you know those old cracked crap grounds are not making you pull out your hair...) Oh- make sure the ground points are paint free when you make them.